Apart from the game’s “amazing 3D graphics,” which show smokey burnouts, header flames, and nitrous purges, game creators gave users tons of car customization options. User can choose a small-block, big-block, or mountain motor; users choice of carburetor or fuel injection; and forced induction such as turbo, nitrous, or blower.
But the options don’t stop there. Users also can customize the brakes, suspension, transmission, and exhaust in addition to hood scoops, wheels, paint, lettering, wings, parachute, and wheelie bars.
New to the game? Do you find the options overwhelming? No worries, Doorslammers 2 developed a beginners guide to help tune each component of your brand-new virtual race car.
According to Doorslammers, engine set-up depends on what kind of racing you want to do in the game. It’s also important to note that in the game, anything under 3,000 horsepower is considered to be “low horsepower.”
That said, Doorslammers suggests the best engine option for open heads-up racing is a twin-turbo mountain motor setup, which should make around 4,470 horsepower when finished.
A crank-driven ProCharger is the best engine option for those interested in class racing or no prep.
Doorslammers says when users select the physical chassis of the car, it’s essential to consider traction. It is a delicate balance of how much power you can safely throw at the track surface in the game while using a minimal amount of added traction aids.
In the game, traction aids consist of chassis upgrades, traction bars, and wings. For each of those traction aids, you have more options.
According to the Doorslammers guide, the wing choice doesn’t matter, and it suggested selecting whichever the user likes the most. The traction bar choice and chassis selection are an intricate process in the game that partially involves horsepower.
The guide suggests the best combination for a screw blown/twin-turbo car would be a full tube chassis, ladder bars, and a wing. Though it also mentioned a popular go-to set up is composed of a naturally aspirated engine with a wing and traction bars only.
The guide suggests the best gear module to use is a six-speed because it has the most adjustability. Users can select which gear ratios they want to run as well. They are meant to simulate rear world gear ratios, but the guide offers an explanation that the higher a number is, the faster the car will accelerate. The downside is that it stops accelerating at a lower mph.
The solution? The guide says to “run a high First gear, and have the gears get lower until Sixth gear because you want to stop accelerating as soon as you go through the quarter-mile traps.”
According to the Doorslammers guide, getting Sixth gear to peak through the strip isn’t possible, so it is better to peak slightly before the stripe rather than after.
According to the guide, the rev limiter is set to 9,800 rpm, and the stall set to 8,000 rpm. The only exception is if a class the user intends to race requires it to be less.
“Shift before the car hits the rev limiter… Set the shift light to 9,500-9,600 (rpm),” the guide said. Doorslammers added that over-revving a gear could result in adding a tenth of a second to the user’s time.
In the game, the only thing that matters tuning-wise regarding the body is the weight. Users should always want the body “slammed” and weight set to “only carbon driveshaft.” Everything else is a personal preference.
Wheelie bars in Doorslammers can also be a useful tool. The guide suggests users think of wheelie bars as a safety net. An optimal setting is eight inches, to catch the car if it goes up on the back wheels.
The tire selection is dependent on which class the car is raced. Different classes have different requirements as they do in the real world, but for an all-out vehicle of any category, the guide recommends 34.5x17s as the best option. When it comes to the front wheels, the larger they are, the harder the car will leave.
In the boost section, users can select a boost controller which can be highly valuable for cars with turbos or nitrous as it allows power to come in at a steady rate.
The game suggests timing retards are like boost controllers for naturally aspirated cars. Some users find them useful in no prep or radial tire racing.
Other options in Doorslammers include line locks, which allow the user to hold the brakes and do a burnout without the car rolling forward and going through the beams. Users can also opt for a delay box if they do bracket racing or heads-up racing as the delay box allows users to delay the reaction time so users can leave on the top bulb instead of the bottom.
Users can select where to place the engine as well as how it’s tuned. Some options to stay away from include “High” or “Meet God,” as those settings will most likely blow up the build. In terms of placement, the guide suggests aiming for the center of gravity.
“You should see a side view of your car. In the side view, you have a little yellow ball. That yellow ball is called the instant center.”
According to the guide, “the further up and back you have that ball, the harder the car leaves. You want to get to a point where the car picks up the front wheels and hovers the bumper/wheelie bars off the ground for 200 feet.”
According to the guide, hitting the wheelie bars or bumper too hard will slow you down, and the gearing won’t matter as much if users opt for their tuning.
In the game, the higher the digit of the shock, the harder the car will leave. The guide recommends looking at the shock values rather than to get caught up in soft/medium/stiff shocks. Additionally, the shocks have the same effect as the instant center.
For more help tuning your virtual race car, Doorslammers recommends visiting some fan-made pages/groups on Facebook or Instagram, or the community on Reddit.com/r/DoorSlammers.
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